Flaws are usually things people want to avoid, and this is no different when it comes to woodturning. If a woodturner notices flaws in the wood they are using, they may be tempted to put that piece of wood on the burn pile and pick up a fresh wood blank.
However, there is another option: embrace the flaws! You may create a whole new style in your woodturning when you work with the flaws you encounter in your wood instead of against them.
A woodturner’s first question about turning flawed wood might be, “why?” Flawless wood blanks can be found in abundance, so why take the time and energy to turn flawed wood? There are many reasons, but here are some to consider.
First, flawed wood might have more character in coloration and grain than other, more “perfect” wood. Imperfections like spalting, ambrosia coloration, and mineral streaks can add unique patterns to the wood along with colors that are not naturally found in certain kinds of wood.
The grain, too, can be affected by things like burls, bark pockets, and bird pecks, which can change the grain pattern in a tree. These unique patterns can make specific wood blanks unlike any other blank. Even if you have pieces from the same tree or same kind of tree, you might encounter very distinct grain patterns.
Some woodturners seek out unique wood blanks as they grow in their craft, as these pieces of wood challenge them in new ways and allow them to show off their skills as they incorporate the flaws into their finished product.
While it might not be the first reason a woodturner picks up a flawed wood blank, turning imperfect wood can actually change you as a woodturner. Most of us value patience as a virtue, but it can be difficult to practice. Turning flawed wood is not as straightforward as turning unblemished wood, so it requires time and patience to draw out the natural beauty of the piece.
Turning flawed wood can also lead to greater creativity. When a woodturner encounters a knot or burl, or if they are trying to incorporate a section of bark or even a large split in the wood, they may not be able to use the “tried-and-true” methods they have come to rely on. These challenges or difficulties lead to innovation, which can, in turn, make a woodturner more creative.
As anyone who has been to a wood show (such the AAW Symposium hosted earlier this year in St. Paul) knows, the pieces that draw the most admiration are the ones that are unlike any others. Unless someone is looking to procure a full set of bowls or plates (and even if they are!), most people seek out items that are unique and artistic. Turning flawed wood can set you and your work apart in a market of “perfect” pieces.
Of course, some woodturners are not looking for wood blanks with personality or looking to build character in themselves. Some have wood on hand that was previously part of other pieces or that belonged to family members or friends they want to commemorate.
On the other hand, some woodturners choose wood with flaws because it’s on hand or free. Whatever the reason, turning wood with flaws is not only possible but interesting and enjoyable!
Once you’ve determined that you want to try embracing some natural flaws as you turn your next piece, you might consider what kind(s) of flaws are present in the wood you have, what tools and techniques you’ve tried in the past, and what you want to try next.
Spalting is “coloration that is found in wood that is caused by a fungus,” according to the Penn State Extension. Spalting can occur in any kind of wood, but it is hard to find in exactly the right state. If the fungus is left too long, it will rot the wood. If the wood is harvested too early, the coloration from the fungus is not as unique or interesting, or it may be found in only a small part of the wood.
Spalting can produce patterns with red or green pigment, lighten areas of the wood, or add dark lines throughout the wood. Any or all of these types of spalting can make pieces more visually appealing than something turned from a “perfect” wood blank. You just have to know how to turn the wood to show off the unique patterns.
Turning wider, shallower bowls or other objects with spalted wood is often a good idea, as there is a wide area to highlight the patterns and this wide base provides support for the entire piece as it is being turned.
Turning spalted wood requires care; it is not as strong as normal wood blanks because the fungus has started the process of decaying the wood, just slightly. Because of this, it is more brittle and prone to tear-outs. Begin turning at a slower rpm than you would usually, and make sure to use light cuts with a sharp tool like a bowl gouge.
When wood starts to decompose, it becomes punky or porous. Punky wood is spongy, so it is not as stable as regular dry wood. Often, woodturners are tempted to throw out or burn punky wood, as it is difficult to turn, especially with regular gouges and scrapers. However, for the creative and patient woodturner, punky wood can lead to some interesting pieces.
Many woodturners recommend stabilizing punky wood with CA glue, epoxy, or a thin shellac; Minwax is a go-to product for many woodworkers. These substances saturate the wood and make it harder, which allows you to turn it with regular tools and techniques. Cactus Juice can also be helpful, but it can be expensive, and it requires a vacuum chamber or pressure pot, then needs to be cured with heat.
However, if you want a real challenge, you might try simply applying many light cuts with extremely sharp tools to punky wood without stabilizing it first. Some woodturners suggest soaking punky wood in water to stiffen the fibers to give a clean cut. You might try turning the wood from different directions and using pull cuts instead of push cuts, as well as using negative rake scrapers.
Keep in mind that a piece of punky wood will not yield a totally smooth, glass-like surface in your finished product. Embracing “punkiness” means finding ways to make the inevitable pockmarks and porous appearance a part of the charm in your bowl, ornament, or platter.
Also, this kind of flawed wood is not best to use when creating food-safe utensils or objects that will need to stand up to harsh or repeated use, or objects that need to have a high level of strength. Instead, pieces made from punky wood make better ornaments or decorations.
Knots are another kind of flaw that you might want to embrace and incorporate into your final product. Knots in the grain can be characterized as either loose or tight. A tight knot means that there is a darker-colored spot in the wood, but you should be able to turn the blank using normal techniques and tools because the strength of the wood is maintained, even in spite of the knot. The main decision you will need to make is how to feature the knot visually.
Knots can also be characterized as loose. When a knot is loose, there is a gap between the knot and the rest of the wood, and some loose knots might even pop all the way out. Loose knots with gaps need to be stabilized with a glue or filler so that they aren’t shaken loose while you are turning. If they are shaken loose, you could be in danger as the knot flies off the lathe. If the knot in question can be popped out, you might try this instead of stabilization, understanding that your finished product will have a hole in it.
When turning wood with knots, make sure to use sharp tools and keep your lathe speed relatively high. You will also want to make light cuts and use a smaller size tool than you might think to use otherwise. These techniques will minimize the pressure being put on the knot and make it less likely to come out.
Because of their unique coloration and change in the grain, pieces with knots or bark don’t need too much embellishment. If you are someone who likes to add grooves and beading to your pieces, you may want to stay away from turning pieces that have knots or bark.
The incorporation of bark can also make for an interesting and unique project. Some wood blanks might have one side or area that includes bark from the outside of the tree. You can keep the bark in one piece, or you might try turning live-edged or bark-rimmed bowls, vases, or goblets. These kinds of items are not meant to be used for food, but they are wonderful decorative pieces.
When turning a piece with bark, make sure you cut the bark with the supporting wood behind or below it. When cutting, work from the bark at the top into the bottom of the bowl. Going the other way can cause the bark to come off. Also, light push cuts can leave the wood smoother and silkier than pull cuts, though you may need to use pull cuts on the outside to cut the bark cleanly without breaking it.
Above all, make sure to handle bark with care. Too much rough handling can cause the bark to separate from the wood. A small amount of CA glue or other sealer can be added beneath the bark to reattach it to the wood, but some of the separation can be avoided if you don’t stack your wood or treat it roughly.
While safety measures should always be taken when turning wood (see our previous blog post for specific safety gear all woodturners need), there are some special precautions you should take when turning wood with these kinds of flaws.
First, make sure to always wear a face shield. Turning wood with knots or bark means the wood may not turn exactly the way you think it might, and you don’t want to be caught off-guard by a bit of flying wood. You may also want to start at a slower rpm than usual to make sure you are able to adjust as punky wood or uneven grain requires a new speed or tool.
Ensure that your piece is securely fastened to the lathe before you begin and be sure to wear a mask or respirator when turning wood with spalting; you don’t want those spores getting into your lungs.
Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, make sure to conduct an honest assessment of your flawed wood and your ability to turn it before you begin. Turning wood with flaws can be incredibly interesting and rewarding but be aware of the risks included when undertaking these kinds of projects.
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